Our dream is to create a movement of conscious people in our society
In the sign of World Vegan month we had a chat with Caroline Baerten from humus x hortense. It’s a Belgium-based plant-based restaurant run by chef Nicolas Decloedt and his partner in crime and wife Caroline. In 2019 they were crowned Best Vegan Restaurant in the world and till today, known for their no nonsense, yet creative sustainable approach.
Q&A WITH CAROLINE BAERTEN
Q
Caroline, you and Nicolas opted for a 360° sustainable concept from the start. What does sustainability mean to you?
A
On the one hand there’s sustainable food production. Our menu is seasonal and we work exclusively with local producers. Yet, we wanted to take it a step further by connecting gastronomy with plant based, and that's relatively new. But for us, it doesn’t stop there. We want to extend sustainability to all the different layers of the restaurant. We work with a green energy supplier, our staff receive weekly screenings on how they can act more sustainably and we investigate how we can maximally avoid single-use plastics. We also only buy in bulk and we like to collaborate with local initiatives on a regular basis. Our chairs and tables, for example, are designed by Brussels designers and made in Belgium.
Q
What inspired you to approach it this way?
A
We have a big heart for the earth, the planet and the animals. Everything has to do with our lifestyle, so it is practically impossible to separate this from our professional activities.
Q
You work zero waste. How do you realize that concretely?
A
There are different levels of zero waste lifestyle. For example, we work farm to table, where we purchase from our organic farmer and have the fresh ingredients transported directly to the restaurant to avoid food loss during the distribution process. This direct relationship between chef and farmer makes it easier to keep a close eye on our stock at the restaurant and ensure that no extra vegetables are picked o, the field. On the other hand we have our botanical cocktail bar. Everything the kitchen team can't use in the menu, we ferment or infuse so that the bartender can work his magic with zero waste cocktails which are paired in the tasting menu.
Q
How do you look at the restaurant sector in general in terms of sustainability?
A
Within the gastronomic field we see that there is some awareness, but in our opinion it doesn't go far enough. The actions that are happening now are too fragmented. For example, a vegetable menu is offered, but the vegetables are not organic. Or they serve sustainably grown fish but the rest of the menu is made with regular products from the supermarket. We can only support small initiatives, but for us it is best to go a little further. Ultimately, it is a mindset.
Q
Do you hope to inspire others in the hospitality sector?
A
Yes, and we are actively doing so. Nicholas, the chef of the house, teaches other chefs about plant based cooking. I write and speak at conferences to show that it’s perfectly possible to make gastronomy more sustainable.
Q
Are there other restaurants or chefs in the world that you and Nicolas look up to?
A
There are some that are pioneering. For example, Dan Barber of Blue Hill Restaurant in New York. Nicholas did an internship there, so he’s a big inspiration. In London there’s Douglas Mcmaster of the restaurant Silo and he’s especially strong when it comes down to zero waste cooking.
Q
Where does the inspiration for your dishes come from?
A
Rather than getting inspired by gastronomy or recipe books, it comes from nature. We love hiking and at a free moment on Sunday evenings we watch nature documentaries. I guess it has to do with finding peace of mind which sparks our creativity. Another way is to feed ourselves with art. I’m an art historian and my husband is an art photographer. Walking in a different context, such as musea or art galleries, gives us all kinds of new ideas.
Q
You were crowned the best vegan restaurant in the world. What's next?
A
Our dream is to create a movement in our society. Eating is enjoying with the senses, so we hope that, through that gateway, we can create a movement to reach a critical mass of conscious people. The end goal is to take better care of our planet, through food.
More info: https://humushortense.be
